So I got dressed, grabbed my book and headed to our local rooftop restaurant for some chai, and to read peacefully and enjoy the quiet in the early morning. Not too long afterwards, Kiran, the manager of the restaurant started to talk to me, asking if I slept well and how I was. I asked him to join me and we got along right away and had plenty to talk about. This lead to a couple of hours of conversation about Canada, and his travels, and languages, and his university education. Then he told me he was learning French, he already speaks 5 languages (including Hindi and English), so he thought maybe learning French would be fun. So he brought out his French books and we practiced French for a little while. He then taught me a few words in his mother tongue which is Kanata language.
Kiran studied history and archeology in a university not far from his home in Hampi, and now he is helping his mom run the family business (guesthouse, restaurant and travel agency). He also owns stocks in a banana plantation and often goes there to do some work and make sure things are going well.
Knowing that Joseph was sick he offered to show me around some of the ruins in Hampi, and another German couple joined us as well.
Kiran has given me a history lesson on Hampi which I find quite interesting and thought it would be nice to share this info.
Hampi was once a powerful Shiva kingdom in the 12th and 13th century where courtesans entertained kings, silk markets were in abundance and temples and palaces covered the countryside. Hampi was the main Hindu kingdom in all of southern India. Then a civil war ensued with the Muslims in the 13th century and after 200 years of fighting the Muslims won. Then Hampi became the forgotten empire. Grass grew between the walls of the monuments, and all the temples lost their shape and starting to corrode and crumble. The Indian government turned a blind eye to the devastation and forgot about Hampi.
It wasn't until 1983 that Hampi was recognized by UNESCO as an endangered historical site.. After this the Indian government recognized that Hampi could be a valuable place for tourism and decided to take action and begin to restore and excavate the ruins on Hampi.
Temples cover most of Hampi and I sit at the rooftop restaurant my view is a 140 metre temple where if you look closely enough you can see monkeys climbing and perching themselves on edge of the temple walls. Behind it are large boulders with Parthenon like structures with massive stone pillars. The landscape is probably one of the most beautiful I've ever seen, with golden ready to harvest rice paddies and banana tree (plantations) surrounding them.
The German couple went another direction to the elephant stables and Kiran and I walked towards the river where women bathe in the water and monkeys run free and temples and rock boulders that are a pink-ish red in colour, cover the land as far as the eye can see. Kiran and I sat with a few of the village people and had chai tea, and it was probably the best tea I had ever tasted. Perhaps it was the beauty of the place I was in, or the kindness Kiran had showed me by being my personal tour guide, or just for the sheer and utter peace I felt.
I bought a handful of the peanuts and fed the monkeys who gently took the shelled nut from my hand and even held my hand in the process.
We walked back to the town and I asked Kiran to take me to a good Masala Dosa restaurant. I've been dying for the south Indian treat since I had arrived. We went to tiny restaurant and the Masala Dosa was the best thing I had tasted. The crispy pancake was filled with onion, potato, rice and other spices, and Kiran told them to make it spicy for me, as they usually omit the spicy chillies for foreigners. But I like my food nice and spicy, and this did the trick.
Afterwards I sat in the restaurant talking to a myriad of travellers giving me advice on things to see and do in India. And this is when Joseph and I (who appeared for a short while to have some chicken noodle soup) decided to extend our stay in Hampi a few more days. Both of us don't just want to be tourists checking off our list as we go from place to place. We want to be travellers staying around long enough to get a feel for the people, and place and soaking in the atmosphere. I want to miss a place when I leave. And if you only spend a day or 2, you don't even have time to see enough and feel the place to miss it. If that means I don't get to see the north then so be it. At least I'll really be able to know the south and get a feel for the culture and get to see more things as well. 5 weeks is just not enough time. I have met people who have been here 4 or more months and they still feel they don't have enough time.
So we decided instead of leaving on Wednesday as planned, we cancelled our tickets and re-booked for Saturday. So tomorrow we leave by train via Bangalore (quick shopping stop) to Fort Cochin in Kerela.
In other news, Kiran has a friend who is a Hindu priest in training and he invited us to visit his Ashram. So we went a few nights ago and the place is scant, but he played some music from an Indian instruments while he sang Hindu songs for us. It was a great experience and not something most people get to experience if you don't meet the locals.
As for what I do in Hampi, my days are shanti shanti (which means relaxed) which is my favourite Hindu word that is known throughout the country regardless of dialect or language. It just rolls off the tongue. A couple times this week I went to the free yoga being offered on the roof of my guesthouse. It starts at 6am (YES 6am) and we meditate for a about 10 minutes and then go into some fun and somewhat intense yoga. I managed to do a headstand today and hold it for a few seconds without falling out of it. Kiran is the yoga instructor and spent time at an Ashram studying yoga and meditation. It absolutely beautiful watching the sunrise come over the mountains and temples while being outside in the cooler mornings exercising the body and mind. The monkeys even join us on the roof and sit and watch or try to steal whatever food or drink they can scavenge.
Then after tea and breakfast we usually walk around checking out temples and hanging out with friends or reading.
Yesterday Joseph and I went to a temple that had 600 stairs to climb before reaching it. It was about a 3km walk there and back and it was an adventure so much fun, crossing a river in round basket boats, dodging cows, and sheep. When we made it to the top, we were rewarded with breathtaking views of the town. It was absolutely gorgeous. Monkeys linger around waiting to be fed bananas or whatever else they can find. One monkey jumped on my head and enjoyed the view from up there, all while trying to put his hands in my bag. Then another monkey got on my back and wouldn't get off me, and even got angry at Joseph when he tried to pry them off me. I had to lay down on the ground and roll over. I did this all while laughing and not freaking out. They are very friendly, and very cute. Especially the babies.
Today, Joseph and I were lucky enough to be invited out to Kiran's banana plantation, it was quite a good opportunity and we were honoured to be asked. Joseph and I rented a scooter and Kiran had his grandfather on the back of his. So we made the 8km journey and enjoyed breathtaking views along the way. We stopped at a sugar cane factory where we got to see how they extract sugar cane and made it into a taffy like sweet that is used in most Indian desserts (cookies, rice cakes). Kiran took a bamboo stick and soaked it in the chewy sweetness and gave it to me to enjoy. It's has a nice natural sweetness to it, that was pleasant and not too over powering. Kiran's banana plantation was beautiful. Peaceful, out in the middle of nowhere with a river running in the middle of it. I thought of my father and knew he would love this place!!
As for this evening, our last before we leave Hampi, we have been invited to our Indian friend Ramesh's house for dinner. This is something I was hoping would happen, because this is how you get to see the real Indian culture. Ramesh is a rickshaw driver and is about 23 years old. He is friends with Kiran (who is 25) and comes around the restaurant a lot to visit. I am not sure how we got to talking to him, but I do know we all became fast friends, with me giving him advice on how to date a western girl, and him trying to talk me into moving to Hampi. So tonight I bought some Indian cookies and cakes to take to his place for dinner. Joseph and Kiran will be coming a long as well. Ramesh lives with his sister, and has asked me if I wanted to cook the chicken we are having for dinner. I told him I didn't come all the way to India to go to an Indians home and cook dinner when I'd much prefer a real traditional Indian dinner. Plus I am sure the chicken I would cook would be way to bland for them. The concoction of spices here are truly amazing!
When I left Canada life was pretty chaotic, with moving, the job, saying goodbye, etc...but I do have to say , I don't remember the last time I have been so at peace with myself, life and the way forward. It's true soul riveting contentment, happiness and peacefulness. I want to bundle up this feeling and tuck it away so I can keep it forever.
Life, for me, just doesn't get any better than this.
Here are pictures and Kiran and I, a monkey and some temples.
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